Savouring Tradition: All you need to know about Haleem in Hyderabad

Hyderabad: Ramzan is the time for fasting and retrospection.

It is also the time for all the communities to rub shoulders and taste the delicious fare available in our city of Hyderabad, most importantly, haleem.

History of Haleem

Haleem was introduced to Hyderabad by Arab immigrants who visited Hyderabad, in the Munhall period, during the rule of the sixth Nizam, Mahbub Ali Khan, and settled here. It later became an integral part of Hyderabadi cuisine during the rule of the seventh Nizam, Mir Osman Ali Khan.

The Arabs brought with them Harees, which underwent several local adaptations, incorporating the diverse flavours of the Deccan region. Over time, it evolved into the beloved Hyderabadi Haleem that we know and love and is distinct from other types of Haleem elsewhere.

In Pakistan, haleem, which means patience in Arabic, has a long-standing history that can be traced to the 10th century, when a cookbook with a recipe for harees was compiled by an Arab scribe, Abu Muhammad al-Muzaffar ibn Sayyar in Baghdad.

Haleem during Ramzan

Only during Ramzan does the word of mouth-watering Haleem comes to everyone’s lips.

Haleem is made of meat, wheat flour, spices and ghee. It is a type of stew made from pounded wheat, lentils and goat’s meat made into a thick paste and served fresh and hot with crispy fried onions, mint and lemon juice. It is a slow-cooked delicacy, often cooked for 7 or 8 hours in ‘Bhattis’ or brick-and-mud ovens, prepared on firewood.

Haleem is traditionally prepared, during the holy month of Ramazan. It is a tradition to break roza or the daily fast with a plateful of high-calorie haleem.

Hyderabad and Haleem

In Hyderabad, haleem is one of the traditional starters at Muslim weddings, celebrations and other special occasions.

It is estimated that during Ramzam, Hyderabad eateries sell a whopping Rs 150 crores worth of Haleem. Every street has its own haleem kiosk selling mutton and chicken haleem. It is estimated that more than 1,500 stalls spring up during Ramzan.

Haleem variants

Mitthi (sweet) and khari (salted) haleem variants are served for breakfast in Old City homes. Haleem has also earned great appreciation from other communities in India for its delicious taste and mouth-watering aroma. The salted variety is popular during the months of Moharram and Ramzan.

GI status for Haleem

Considering how popular Hyderabad is for Haleem, it is only fitting that in September 2010, Hyderabad was given GI status for Haleem.

Haleem is available in most of the eateries by 6 pm. After Trabeeb prayers are over, which is after 10 pm, many families and friends go haleem hopping, every day to a new place. At popular eateries, it takes a minimum of 15 minutes in a queue to get a bowl of haleem, even after midnight. Hyderabad city wears a festive look for almost a month.

Places in Hyderabad to go Haleem hopping

There are hundreds of small eateries all over the city but a few places stand out as the best places to enjoy haleem. Here are some of the best places to go haleem hopping.

- Delicious mutton haleem is served at Sarvi outlets. It is authentic Irani Haleem with the right proportions of mutton, wheat, dry fruits and spices properly mashed.

- The haleem at Pista House is good, fully laced with ghee and mutton pieces. Modified to suit the taste of cosmopolitan Hyderabad, Pista House professionally markets its Haleem and has outlets in many places. Its quality is always the same over decades. Good marketing and distribution are one of the reasons for its popularity.

- Shah Ghouse is a famous outlet at Shalibanda that serves the best haleem Hyderabadi style and is one of the most sought-after places to eat haleem in Hyderabad. You get your value for money.

- Shaddan and Addaab in the Pattergatti area are quite popular eateries in Old City.

- Bahar and Hyline in the Basheerbagh area serve good haleem.

- On King Koti Road there are about 20 joints that serve mutton, chicken and beef haleem. The servings are small and affordable.

- In the Tolichowki food court area Basara and Four Seasons are very popular for haleem, non-veg platter and good Arabian food.

- The Bombay Hotel in Ranigunj serves an Irani version of Haleem loved by all.

- In Paradise, lovers of chicken haleem flock to taste the best the outlet can offer.

- Pakwaan in Sikh Village is fast emerging as a delectable place for haleem.

- Bawarchi at Charminar Crossroads is also popular, along with 555 and Grill 9.

- The best chicken haleem is available at King’s Darbar at Mir Alam Tank. Mutton Mafia in Sainikpuri serves a delicious haleem this year.

Kalyani Haleem is among the most popular places and is available at Alhamludilla Nampally, Iqbal and Ajjwa in Old City.

Camel meat haleem as well as camel meat is sometimes said to be available only during Ramzan in Aghapura/Nampally and Barkas in Old City.

Haleem during Iftar

The best Haleem is served in Iftar parties hosted for family and friends. Families from other communities also organise the Iftar parties for their Muslim brethren. Ramzan is a time of fellowship with families, friends and other communities.

In these parties, besides Haleem, many vegetarian and non-vegetarian Hyderabadi dishes are best enjoyed in the traditional Shahi Dastarkhana. It is a low chowki or wooden bed, on which cotton mattresses are spread. They are bordered with relaxing supports and soft cushions on the edges. All you have to do is make yourself comfortable and feel like a Nizam!

Some of the ingredients of the traditional recipes are kept secret and are only known to the subsequent generations of the royal cooks. The royal cooks of the traditional Hyderabadi families are known, as ‘Khansas’ and are held in high esteem in Hyderabad. Home chef Sonu Irroni of Sainikpuri is well known for her Haleem recipe too.